| I love how the little knots I tied with the warp became felted fringe. I was planning to cut it off, but I am going to leave it like this instead. |
Sunday, March 4, 2012
felted rugs
All three of my rugs have now been machine-felted and are blocking to dry outside. Here they are, at approximately 1/3 smaller and with a new rustic, shabby appeal?!
wool rugs
I am pleased to show you my new weaving adventure: rugs! I'm using Cascade 220 (worsted) in the beautiful neutral Doeskin Heather for the warp with 2 ends per inch, and Cascade Magnum (super bulky) for the weft in a multitude of fun bright colors.
One skein of 220 is just right for warping three rugs approximately 23" x 40". I cut my first batch of three off the loom a little while ago and here is what they looked like:
I'm kind of laughing now because I just machine felted the pink/orange/red one as I started this post, and it looks so completely different already!! Stay tuned for a post-felting update on all three!
One skein of 220 is just right for warping three rugs approximately 23" x 40". I cut my first batch of three off the loom a little while ago and here is what they looked like:
I'm kind of laughing now because I just machine felted the pink/orange/red one as I started this post, and it looks so completely different already!! Stay tuned for a post-felting update on all three!
Friday, March 2, 2012
Twill Scarf
I finished my first handwoven piece, a semi-plaid scarf woven in a twill pattern. I'm not sure if it can really be considered plaid since there is no repeating pattern of the three colors. If you are unfamiliar with twill, it basically refers to the way the parts are woven together forming diagonal lines. I have learned only the tip of the iceberg so far - there is a lot you can explore with twill. It adds strength and stability to the fabric, and this is why all denim is woven on a twill.
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| I used stash yarn to make this scarf: Black and charcoal grey wool and poppy red cotton. |
Monday, February 27, 2012
more progress on Applewood
On Friday I joined the underarms with 2" worth of stitches on each side. Ever since then this sweater has been knitting up very quickly! I love how it is turning out.
Notice something funny about the color? One thing to consider with hand-dyed yarns such as Malabrigo is that no two skeins are exactly alike. If this is a problem for you then you can knit each row from a different ball and have them blend together, but I prefer to play up this feature and ensure that my sweater is one-of-a-kind. It's helpful to have a plan for how the colors will be distributed. In my case, one of the three balls I have is much lighter than the other two. I thought it would be pretty if there was a wide band of the lightest yarn (containing the most pink color) in the top-middle area, and having the darker (more brown) parts on the very top and on the bottom half. I saved part of the light ball to pick up the sleeves and knit a few inches with it there too.
Notice something funny about the color? One thing to consider with hand-dyed yarns such as Malabrigo is that no two skeins are exactly alike. If this is a problem for you then you can knit each row from a different ball and have them blend together, but I prefer to play up this feature and ensure that my sweater is one-of-a-kind. It's helpful to have a plan for how the colors will be distributed. In my case, one of the three balls I have is much lighter than the other two. I thought it would be pretty if there was a wide band of the lightest yarn (containing the most pink color) in the top-middle area, and having the darker (more brown) parts on the very top and on the bottom half. I saved part of the light ball to pick up the sleeves and knit a few inches with it there too.
Tuesday, February 21, 2012
Schacht weaving loom
Recently I took up another new activity: Weaving! Working at Tempe Yarn & Fiber, it was only a matter of time. Soon after I took my beginning floor loom class, my employers found that they had too many floor looms in the shop and needed to make room for some new rigid heddle looms. I jumped on the opportunity and so I became the happy new owner of this beautiful Schacht loom. For practice I weaved off the piece that was already warped on it when it came to me. Finally this past weekend I threaded my first warp (warp=lengthwise strands) since taking the class probably over a month ago. I don't expect perfection in my tension at this point and so I figured this would be a good time to use up some stash yarn. The color scheme is probably a little too wintery by now, but I picked it out several weeks ago. I still love it though!
Monday, February 20, 2012
Sunday, February 19, 2012
On The Needles
After the snowflake sweater I knit on size 15's, I was itching to knit something with teeny tiny stitches. And I don't care how long it takes me! I had three 470-yard skeins of Malabrigo Lace (100% merino single ply) in the beautiful colorway Applewood purchased a few months ago and I am finally free to work with it as my #1 priority project. I experimented with needle sizes and settled on a size 4, which gives a light airy look to the fabric while keeping the stitches small enough to not feel like I'm cheating satisfy my lace craving. At my relatively tight gauge, I get 7.5 stitches to the inch.
Terry, the owner of the LYS where I work, let me borrow a very helpful book called Hand-Knitting Techniques, which was put out by Threads magazine in the early 90s. It's a collection of focused articles written by various knitting experts. The article I'm using is about knitting "designer raglans" from the top down. Basically it talks about breaking from the traditional raglan shape by deciding on your desired ratio between the measurement across the back and the measurement of the sleeve width along the shoulder. Beginning at the neck of a top-down raglan, you always increase at four points every second row to give the traditional sleeve shape. At any point there is a constant relationship between the two, explained by the formula
Back = Sleeve + D
so you can create a wide sleeve (where D is a smaller value), or a very tight small sleeve (where D is a larger value), and still use the simple top-down raglan technique to knit your sweater.
If I haven't lost you yet, I would like to show my progress on the sweater so far! I wanted a very wide neck that is as low in the back as it is in the front, so I started by casting on 53 stitches for each of two sleeves and increasing at the neck edges as well as the regular sleeve points. Finally I cast on extra stitches at the end of each piece and began to knit in the round to join the two pieces and form the neck opening. Of course to show the maximum potential of this gorgeous yarn I had to add in some lace. I chose a sweet rose leaf panel that I believe works well in this colorway. I guess I am really into sweaters where the front and back are identical - that's what's happening here! (Not unlike this)
| One of the four sleeve increase points |
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| Rose Leaf Lace panel. I got the idea for this and lots of other lace samples here. I modified the first repeat so that there didn't appear to be the bottom half of two leaves at the neckline. |
| This is the best view of the whole thing right now. It's not easy to look at on the needles but once I get to the underarm it should start to look more like a sweater! |
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